Help: My pictures look flat, out of focus/blurry/not crisp enough, dull, overexposed
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One question that seems to plague a few of you is how to give your pictures some pop (one o!). Why do my pictures often look so colorful while your pictures sometimes look a bit flat or out of focus/blurry/not sharp enough/not crisp enough. Do you have a broken camera or are you missing some other magical button. After Cheryl posted her questions and awakened my curiosity, we exchanged some emails to discuss her problem of seemingly overexposed pictures that apparently lacked sharpness in color and detail (by her account). With her old Canon PowerShot she was able to capture great pictures. We quickly ruled out some common problems with monitor calibration and printing. Color Management is a tricky process. I am far from being an expert despite a working knowledge. I also asked Cheryl if she might have set her camera to Adobe RGB. In the Color Management article I explained how the wrong color space setting may produce flat looking images. If your printed pictures look different than they do on your screen, the processing service is usually not to blame. They rely on expensive calibrated equipment. Laptops have often cheap, low quality LCD. Get a better monitor and calibrate it! Features and ColorspaceDigital SLR cameras offer advanced features and the camera menus and user manuals swamp the casual photographer with information. I was not surprised to learn that Cheryl had no idea what Adobe RGB meant. Adobe RGB only works in the creative zone modes. It is on the second page of the configuration menu on your camera (red camera icon). When I processed one of her images through ProPhoto RGB (my color space of choice), it suddenly exploded with color. I do not believe that Cheryl had set her camera to the wrong setting, since other pictures still look oversaturated after I changed the color space.
What happenedBoth pictures contain the same information. I generated the second image from the first one, proofing that it already had all the necessary information. During the relatively simple processing (assign ProPhoto RGB to the image and convert it to sRGB) the contrast in the color information got enhanced. I can achieve similar (but less pronounced) results by simply enhancing the colors in Photoshop. I usually use LAB color mode to separate the color from the brightness information if I want to affect only color (see link). I believe this is all that is required for Cheryl’s images. But isn’t that cheating?Whenever a photographer uses software to enhance the perception of images, people usually are outraged. There seems to be a predominant opinion among people who have no knowledge of the subject, that one can create fantastic images with Photoshop alone and that that is cheating. I recommend reading my article on the Ethics of Photoshop Image Manipulation for an in depth coverage of the subject. In short, you cannot turn ugly photographs into stunningly beautiful masterpieces (garbage in, garbage out). Mastering Photoshop is an art in itself and should be seen as such. The camera IS to blame!Point and Shoot cameras are usually adjusted for maximum user pleasure with minimum effort. The results are pleasing to most people, simply because the manufacturer adjusted the presets accordingly. Digital SLR users are often much more selective. We want our color output to be more muted so that we can capture the entire color range without clipping off colors. We rather adjust the color in our software to our own style and liking. Most Consumer SLRs have presets, which let us adjust the color saturation in our JPG images. By default these settings are rather muted for the above reasons. RAWI usually prefer to capture RAW files and perform my very own RAW processing. This way I do not have to rely on a camera processor making automated decisions for me. Instead I can adjust my output depending on the scene and the lighting conditions. Even the best camera chips do not know your intentions and/or what is in the scene. I can even choose to enhance the dynamic range (HDR processing of RAW). Digital SLRs are very demanding and require you to rethink how you work with images, but the results speak for themselves. Hopefully some of my Tutorials can help pave the way for you. Why then do my macros look better ?
The image on the left is unprocessed. I do not know if Cheryl used a different lens. Lenses have a strong influence on color rendition. If she used a different lens, I would like to encourage her to try a comparative shot of the same scene with two lenses to find out about the differences. Dynamic Range ProblemsAs far as the camera goes, the macro shot has a more limited dynamic range than the forest picture. The camera has to preserve detail in the shadows and highlights of the forest shot and cannot render the shadows and the highlights well enough, since they lie near or beyond the capabilities of the camera. As a remedy I would like her to try exposing for the shadows or the highlights alone. If you expose for shadows, the shadows should be rendered much clearer. The highlights will be blown out, but that may be perfectly acceptable in many shots. Forest scenes present a drastic challenge for cameras. Try shooting on overcast days to avoid bright spots on the ground and exclude the sky from your photographs to prevent blown out highlights. Your pictures should turn out much better. Another less obvious reason may be that Cheryl is using the scene modes of her camera. Maybe the macro mode simply is adjusted to produce more saturated colors. Maybe you could try it out and post the results here? What did I forget?I probably forgot to mention a few things. If you happen to have some more ideas, feel free to post them below. |



I already got Cheryl convinced to learn more about RAW processing. She sent me a follow up question about her macro images that appear much more saturated and seem to pop right out of the camera.






blurry pictures
I have the Canon XSI. I also use the Canon 17-55mm 2.8 lens. I mostly use the auto settings but for some reason most all the pictures come out blurred. I'll take landscape pictures, indoor basketball games, etc. On the back of the camera they look clear until you zoom in and they are all blurred. When I transferr it to the laptop it is still blurred. Also, when I'm pressing the shoot button down half way, the lens is jumping back and forth trying to focus and a lot of times I miss the shot because of it. It also does it with my Canon 55-250mm zoom lens. Is it the camera, the lens, or me?
Thanks,
Joanne
Servo
Just a quick shout from my mobile phone:
-Check your focus mode (servo vs single shot). Servo is for keeping track of moving subjects.
-Check if you have all focus points activated !
-Check your metering modes (set it to evaluative)
If everything checks out, vary the parameters (spot focus and single focus point and see if you can obtain focus on a well lit high contrast subject.
If that doesn't work, send if to their repair center with a detailed problem description but call first to get a case number.
dull pix
I get dull results too with the 18-55 kit lens. I would like to set the settings in the camera rather than have to run everything through Photoshop to fix. If you look at the Picture settings menu you will see that the camera defaults are dull, plus sharpness is not maximized. I think I can configure the Standard Picture to what I need, at least I can bump up sharpness, maybe saturation and contrast too. Will try. I took over a hundred shots of new Buckeyes coming up and was disappointed by the lack of color. Has anyone already done the trials of these settings and come up with recommendations?
Thanks.
Correct
That is absolutely right David. Thanks for adding this information. Most modern cameras have these options and it usually comes down to taste what you should set.
A word of warning: Don't go overboard on the settings. I often find that my taste changes and since RAW files are neutral, I can always change the way I process my pictures as long as I keep the originals.
I usually like to increase sharpness and saturation and often try to adjust the color tonality so that skin color is rendered correctly under controlled conditions (white balance set manually).
Since in-camera processing also burns a white balance into your pictures that you cannot change later you have to pay more attention. On the other hand you can automatically process all your images on the computer which is fast and often yields better results.
XSI- unnervingly soft images, especially on full auto mode
Hi
I came across your site and was just enamored with your ability/willingness to help people with thier xsi "problems". I am a new owner as well and have had the camera for a couple of days now.
While the camera is befuddling to a dslr noob like me, the one thing i did not expect to see is the utter lack of any sharpness in the simple full auto mode, as well as any others. I simply cannot pick up and shoot in full auto and get a sharp shot, and im trying to figure out if its a camera error, lens error, etc. I will be getting the efs 50-250 lens this afternoon and i can compare the sharpness, but right now im very worried.
here are links to two images i took this morning- one is from the xsi, and another from my trusty sony p200. The lack of sharpness is flabergasting, and both are in full auto mode:
p200
http://deslogic.net/link/DSC06506.JPG
xsi
http://deslogic.net/link/IMG_0415.JPG
my problem is that the expensive dslr in full auto mode is only about half as sharp, which i find, well, CRAZY. It's really driving me bonkers. I cant seem to get a sharp line no matter what my focus or mode is, and i'd like to sort it out before more events come around and im taking all these soft shots. I have read of others doing a reset, or software bugs that can result in focusing errors, but this is just oo obvious- from the first shot i took with it. I have shot some "nice" pictures with it over the weekend, but sharpness is not a feature of any of them.
Your advice would be highly appreciated, and thanks in advance
Try this
Hello Edward,
I looked at the file and I can see that you shot the picture at 53mm focal length with an exposure time of 1/60s. Since the camera has a crop factor of 1.6, you will have a hard time shooting pictures holding the camera.
The Rebel always uses 1/60s when you use the flash, but you can set another exposure time (Tv) if you wish.
Secondly I can see that an aperture of 5.6 at 53mm will result in a relatively shallow depth of field.
Third I know that 5.6 is the maximum aperture of the Kit lens at 53mm. Eery lens is sharper when you stop down (to f/8 for instance.
Why the P200 is sharper: I also have a P200. It has a very small sensor and thus inherently a much much greater depth of field. The smaller sensor also translates into a much shorter focal length, which means you will not have problems with camera shake. DSLR require a bit more attention, but the control over depth of field will give you much better creative options.
What to do: First find out if there is a problem with your camera and then report back. Here is what you should do:
-Either shoot on a bright sunny day or use a tripod to eliminate camera shake.
-Use the same focal length (e.g. 50mm).
-Select the center focal point
-Point that focal point on a clearly defined subject (clouds don't have enough definition, the edge of a flag pole does)
-Vary the aperture (Av) between f/8 and f/5.6 and take two test shots
-Look at the shots right where the focal point was and let me know if that is sharp bot times.
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