Bokeh - the least understood lens property

This guest article was contributed by Brian White from Background Exposure.

Warning: Reading this article may diminish your enjoyment of some photographs you view in the future because you will start to observe a flaw that would previously have gone unnoticed.

A camera lens has many different attributes. There is focal length, zoom, minimum/maximum aperture, sharpness, and chromatic abberation... and that's just off the top of my head. Lens manufacturers only tell the basics like focal lengths and apertures. Third party reviews will often get in to sharpness and "fringing". But most of these reviews are concentrate on subjects that are in focus. They usually ignore those parts of the photograph that are outside the range of "acceptable sharpness" since they're assumed to be unimportant. After, all, if they important, they would be in focus. Besides, it's all blurry anyway, right? Not always.

"A blurry background is not necessarily un-sharp."

At first read, this seems like a contradiction in terms. How can something that is "blurry" be at the same time "sharp"? Why depends on the reason something is blurry. When something is out of focus, the light rays coming through the lens are projected on the film/sensor in a circular area instead of at a single point. If the rays are dispersed evenly, you get a circle like that on the left. If the rays are concentrated towards the center, you get a circle like that on the right. In the center is an example of a perfect in-focus point.

You'll note that the circle on the left, though blurred, is still sharp on the edges. An image is nothing more than numerous points of light, so let's add some more blurry points.

Already you can see that the image on the left is not the smooth gradient that you would expect from a blurred image. One could argue, however, that this is due to the high contrast pattern being demonstrated and that if it was more uniform, as in a normal photograph, then the blur would be better.

Okay, that is better, but what happens if you have a single point that is much brighter than the others?

At first glance everything looks okay, but a second look shows an obvious circle in the left image while the right one is still blurry. Of course, this is a contrived example and would never occur in real life, right?

The above picture is a portion of a larger image I took of a pine branch just after a rain shower. The drops of water on the needles catch the sunlight and make very bright points of light that get rendered in out-of-focus areas as sharp-edge circles. They're not perfect circles because the diaphragm of the lens is not a perfect circle; it has seven straight blades, as you can easily count.

Bokeh: The Forgotten Lens Attribute

The rendering of out-of-focus points by a camera lens is called "bokeh" and it is commonly ignored by lens users and lens designers for the simple reason that "good bokeh" (the images on the right) is created by imperfect lenses, or lenses that exhibit "spherical aberration". A technically perfect lens (corrected spherical aberration) will render points evenly, thus causing the images on the left. Most lenses will exhibit this "neutral" bokeh.

This quality is of special importance to portrait photographers who almost always want soft backgrounds. In their case, any sharpness will detract from their subjects and so many of these photographers demand lenses with uncorrected spherical aberration for their work.

Now... If the images on the right are examples of "good bokeh" and the images on the left are examples of "neutral bokeh", then what would be "bad bokeh"? In this case (over-corrected spherical aberration), instead of getting a solid circle, you would get a ring. Unfortunately, the nature of physics says that if an out-of-focus point in the background exhibits good bokeh, then an out-of-focus point in the foreground will exhibit bad bokeh, and vice versa. That is why professional portrait lenses like the Nikkor 105/135 DC ("defocus control") allow adjustment of the amount of spherical aberration correction in both the forward and backward directions from center. I owned a Nikkor 135DC at one time and it was a absolutely beautiful lens!

Now that you know about Bokeh, though, you're probably going to start noticing it in photographs you see, including your own. You're going to be distracted by things that are supposed to be out of focus, and there isn't anything you can do about it. Still, the distraction would have been there whether you knew what was causing it or not, and now that you know what it is, perhaps you can do something about it. If you don't have or can't afford a "dc" lens like the above-mentioned Nikkors, things like this can be somewhat corrected with post-processing in Gimp or Photoshop by applying a gaussian blur to these areas. I have an example of digital photo retouching on my Landscape Photography blog.

-- Brian White

Thanks Brian

Thanks for the article Brian. I enjoyed reading it, especially since its a subject thats not discussed much. It's a very good and concise tutorial.
It's funny that you mentioned it, but I have noticed that too. The more you know and experiment, the more thorough you look at photos (which is good if they are your own, there is always room to improve). Often I look at a picture that I once thought was perfect and I start to discover certain flaws that I had never noticed before.
The same goes for the outdoors. I can't walk along a beach and enjoy the sunset anymore, since I am always busy to get a good shot out of it. I can't just enjoy any scene without evaluating how it would look like on a photo, how I would frame it, where the best vantage point is, when the light will be best ......

Bokeh

When I first learned about Bokeh, it was "new" to me. Since then, I see it all the time. <sigh> Sometimes ignorance is bliss.

Carrying my DSLR around does tend to dampen the spontaneity of the moment, but the real problem is that it can greatly detract from the enjoyability of other people (my enjoyment of being with them and their enjoyment, presumably, of being with me). I like to have a camera with me all the time, so I bought a little point-and-shoot I just wear on my belt. If a great shot presents itself, I'm ready, but otherwise it's a normal outing.

I do have a P&S too but I

I do have a P&S too but I don't dare using it for those special moments. Actually I would always feel like I missed out on a great shot simply because of that. I guess its about time to take things less serious again and enjoy the good things in live, even if it means missing some great shots. I found out about Bokeh when I researched lenses for my Canon 20D. Some users were rambling about how great it looked on one of the lenses I was going to buy, so I read up on it a bit. Anyways I am quite pleased with the background in this image:

Deer Closeup - Yosemite NP, CA, USA

Backgrounds

That's a great shot. The lens looks "neutral" for Bokeh, which is pretty standard. The foreground is so amazingly sharp, though, that you don't notice the circles in the background unless you specifically look for them.

The image was shot with my

The image was shot with my Canon 70-200mm f/4 L (one of the best telephoto zoom lenses on the planet especially for the price). And yes, after reading your article I see more circles than I used to ;-). Regardless, the Image has not been post-processed in any way. It was taken in Yosemite. The buck did let me get amazingly close. I am not sure it was the smartest thing I ever did (getting so close in front of a large animal with a pointy antlers) but the image turned out quite good. I like how the hairs on his mouth are lit by the sun.

So here you have it folks. Another thing to check out when you go and buy lenses especially when you are into Portrait Photography or Macro Photography. I wish I had more money to spend on the glass. Cheap lenses are not as sharp either and loose sharpness towards the sides are less light sensitive ... I'd love to get a midrange L-Series Zoom and maybe a T/S (Tilt and Shift) Lens (to the left are my favorite candidates) but the prices are out of this world. I think they are well worth the money but you have to earn it first. A T/S lens can give you an infinite depth of field (by changing the perspective projection). I know this advice has been given many times before, but here it is again: If you have a limited budget, buy the cheaper camera (e.g. Rebel vs. 30D) and go for the better Glass. The pictures will only be as good as the weakest link and with todays high quality sensors that is more often the lens.

Good Glass

Right you are. I shoot Nikon and that's why I went with the D80 over the D200. They have the same sensor; just the body and firmware are different. I spent the money I saved on the 18-200 VR lens; it's very nice and will be "modern" long after the D80 is technologically obsolete.

Superzoom

I am wondering though, how good are these Superzooms? I bought a Tokina 24-200mm Lens for Dani and I have borrowed in on occasion (in Peru on the Andean Explorer where I needed to act quickly and zoom throug a wide range. Otherwise I believe anything above 3x zoom may be less then ideal. In fact one of the best and cheapest Lenses I have is my Canon 50mm f/1.8 Lens that I picked up really cheap. A prime lens is actually the best you can do from a performance standpoint. Optimizing a lens for a wide range is pretty hard and the wider the range, the more compromises have to be made. On the downside I find myself swapping lenses in the field quite often.

Nikon 18-200 VR

I bought my 18-200 VR based on the review and recommendation of Ken Rockwell (here) and I'm quite happy with it. It's better optically than the 24-120 I used to use on my F90X. The sharpness at both ends of the range is great and the VR works quite well. I still use my 50mm f1.4 when I'm indoors at a party or something, but for general use I love this lens.

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